Part of the problem is that there isn’t much information out there in English on making ramen noodes. Even in Japan, noodle making is a closely guarded secret and you don’t see ramen shops parading around their recipes on the web. From the information I was able to glean, I knew that the noodles are made with wheat flour, and get their yellow color and distinctly firm texture from the addition of kansui. I also knew that they’re traditionally hand pulled, which means the dough has a higher water content than noodles you’d roll and cut. Since noodles get their texture from the proteins in the wheat forming elastic chains of gluten, I decided to use bread flour, which typically contains 12-14% protein (higher than all-purpose flour). I also knew that learning how to hand pull noodles as fine as ramen was a skill that would take far longer to master than I, or many of my readers, would have patience for, so I decided to make a drier dough that could be rolled and cut using a pasta maker. This would put homemade ramen noodles within the reach of most home cooks. Here’s an account of my learnings batch by batch: Batch #1: I made this with 2 cups bread flour, ⅔ C water and ½ teaspoon of liquid kansui. Everything went into a stand mixer with a dough hook until the dough came together. Then I formed it into two squares, wrapped and refrigerated one, and rolled out the other. I rolled it out to setting #5 of on the pasta maker and cut it using the spaghetti attachment, then boiled the noodles for 1 ½ minutes. This batch had a couple of problems. The dough was a bit tacky, so even after being dusted with flour, the noodles stuck together in pairs of two and had to be hand separated. I’d also rolled it out too thin and by the time the noodles were in the ramen, they were soggy. The dough also lacked the lustrous yellow color I was looking for. Fresh noodles, but not quite what I was looking for. Batch #2: After resting in the fridge overnight, I took the other half of the first batch and rolled it out, this time only to setting #3. The strands were still sticking together, but the noodles had a nice firm texture when cooked. Batch #3: For this batch, I used 2 cups of bread flour, reduced the water to ½ cup and increased the kansui to 1 teaspoon. As soon as I added the water/kansui mixture I knew this batch was going to be better, as the flour immediately turned a bright golden yellow. I let the mixer run for 10 minutes this time and the mixer bowl was full of golden yellow nuggets. I was worried I hadn’t added enough water, but with a little hand kneading it came together into a ball, and I let this rest overnight in the fridge. The next day, I cut the dough in half, rolled it out to setting #3 and ran it through the spaghetti cutter as before. This time the noodles didn’t stick together, and I reduced the boiling time to just over a minute. The noodles were extremely firm (almost too firm), but by the time I had the soup and all the toppings on the ramen, they were the perfect texture and stayed that way until the last drop of soup was gone. Success! Homemade ramen noodles that came very close to store-bought. If you’re wondering what kansui is, it’s the ingredient that makes all the magic happen. The story goes that the unique noodles produced around lake Kan in Inner-Mongolia were attributed to the water from the lake. Modern science has since revealed that the lake is highly alkaline, which is what gives the noodles their unique texture, flavor, and color. You can now buy factory produced “kansui” (lake Kan water) either in powdered or liquid form. I used a brand called Koon Chun which labels their product as Potassium Carbonate Sodium Bi-Carbonate. It’s similar to lye water used in European baking, but check the label to be certain it has the same composition. If you’re looking for a more scientific explanation behind how kansui works, here’s what Dr. Kantha Shelke, Scientist at Corvus Blue LLC, a Chicago-based food and nutrition research firm has to say: I know this isn’t a typical post since you don’t end up with a finished dish, but I really wanted to write a comprehensive post on making ramen noodles from scratch. Here are some recipes for ramen and ramyeon that you can use these alkaline noodles for: “Kansui is a mixture of sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate which form an alkaline solution (pH ~9) when mixed with water. Wheat flour contains a number of compounds called flavones and trans-ferulic acid which are bound to starch and therefore colorless or white. The addition of an alkaline solution to wheat flour changes the pH of the mixture, which in turn detaches these flavones (specifically apigenin glycosides) and trans-ferulic acid from starch and allows their natural yellow color to manifest. “Another reason for the addition of kansui is to toughen the protein in wheat flour so that the resulting noodles are firmer, more elastic and springy texture, and less sticky when cooked. The addition of Kansui allows the use of lower protein (and therefore less expensive) wheat flour to make noodles with the quality one would expect of noodles made with superior quality flour with higher protein levels.” Tonkotsu Ramen (Pork Ramen) Tsukemen Ramen (Dipping Ramen) Chicken Ramen Kimchi Ramyeon (Korean style ramen) Miso Ramen Spicy Tantanmen Ramen makes enough noodles for 4 bowls
📖 Recipe
