For me, unripe fruit isn’t just a consequence of corporate farming, it’s a unique ingredient with its own texture and unique flavor profile that can be delicious when properly prepared. Traditional Japanese ume are made using unripe apricots; the brining process not only preserves the fruit, it imparts a unique flavor cherished in Japanese cuisine. It’s also a fun challenge to come up with with new ways of using a familiar ingredient in an unfamiliar form. I first made this green tomato gratin years ago when I still lived in New York, and and it’s since become a favorite when these firm, verdant jewels of spring are available in markets. The rich mornay sauce provides the perfect contrast to the tart, fragrant green tomatoes. When baked in the oven, the two meld together, creating a well-balanced side dish with a crisp, flavorful topping, tart, juicy fruit, and rich, savory sauce that goes beautifully with grilled meat. It also makes for a delightfully decadent breakfast when served with some poached eggs and toast. It’s not always easy to find green tomatoes in the market, but don’t pass them up when you do. This easy recipe will have you seeking them out. Or maybe you can try your hand at growing them yourself. You’ll be able to start enjoying the harvest that much sooner.